No. 02 · Tailored garments

Suiting, blocked and pressed.

How a two-piece moves through Press Room 02 — the long bench, three tailor's hams, and a single warm pendant.

The method

The method

A jacket is examined inside and out before any treatment is chosen. Cloth is identified by hand: worsted, flannel, hopsack, tropical, fresco. The lining is checked for tears. Buttons are counted and tightened.

If the cloth wants only steam, it receives only steam - on a brass-trimmed valet, away from the press. If it wants the press, the bench is set with the right ham: small for the sleevehead, medium for the chest, large for the collar.

The shoulder is the only place we will not press flat. It is rested on the ham and warmed in passes. Lapels are rolled, not creased. Vents are settled with weights.

Trousers are creased single, with a sharp line, against the warp. The waistband is steamed only. Returned on a broad wood hanger, sleeved in cotton.

Cloth

What we know about your cloth.

No. 01

Worsted

Pressed at moderate heat with steady steam. The yarn is dense; it will hold the line for weeks.

No. 02

Flannel

Steamed off the press. Heat flattens the nap; we coax it back with a soft brush.

No. 03

Tropical & fresco

Open weaves. Pressed cool, in short passes, against a damp linen cloth.

No. 04

Hopsack

Pressed dry, with weights on the seams. The basketweave is unforgiving of pressure.

No. 05

Velvet & corduroy

Steamed off the press, brushed against the nap, hung to dry overnight.

No. 06

Vintage cloth

Assessed in person. Some weaves cannot be returned to the press. We will say so.

Book a pickup. We'll do the rest by Thursday.

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